Kinkaku-ji, or the Temple of the Golden Pavilion, is the iconic temple of Kyoto. Dating from the late 14th century, the temple was originally the retirement villa of the shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. After his death in 1408, in accordance with his wishes, it become a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect.
The temple is built over 3 floors with each floor representing a different style of architecture. The first floor, housing statues of Yoshimitsu and Shaka Buddha, is built in the Shinden style which was used for palace buildings during the Heian Period, which predated the Muromachi era (1336-1573). The second floor is built in the Bukke style used in samurai residences. The samurai, whilst originally warriors, increasingly became more and more powerful setting up a military government in 1192 and ruling over the country for the next 700 years. The second and third floors are covered in gold leaf – hence the name The Temple of the Golden Pavilion. The third floor is built in the style of the Chinese Zen Hall, and is also gilded inside and capped with a golden phoenix.
The Golden Pavilion, built in the early years of the Muromachi era, continues the Heian garden prototype with ponds and islands. During the Heian period the intention was that the temples and gardens were viewed from boats; and there are contemporary records recording boating parties and festivities. In the Muromachi era the intention was that the garden was viewed from specific points from within the temple; at this time the chisen kaiyu teien ‘pond-spring-strolling-garden’ was developed. Contemporary records show that the Golden Pavilion was intended to be viewed from boats, as in the Heian era, although the garden could be admired from the three storeys of the Pavilion whose geometric proportions means that any view was harmoniously framed.
The pond on which the Pavilion is sited has an inner and outer pond; the outer pond has a couple of small islands and in addition there are two larger turtle islands facing in opposite directions.
Having passed the Golden Pavilion the visitor is taken up a windy path past the Anmintaku Pond, which it is claimed never dries up.
The light on the day we visited was extraordinary causing the most wonderful reflections in the pond and the sun really made the pavilion sparkle. We were grateful that we hadn’t visited two days before when we spent the day under heavy skies and dodging the rain.
A striking feature of the majority of the Japanese gardens we saw was their tidiness. There was rarely a leaf out of place and as you can see from this photo the moss is being raked for some unknown purpose. We also saw moss and lichen being trimmed and other very labour intensive approaches to horticulture which made our issues with lawn edging seem quite pedestrian.
Being Kyoto we couldn’t avoid encountering a group of young ladies all dressed up in traditional dress who were only too happy to pose for us, subject to a high level of bowing and smiling.
This is the key photo opportunity area and as you can see it is incredibly busy. However, with their usual efficiency, the Japanese manage the visitors in such a way that you don’t really feel that you have been managed, everyone gets their chance to take any photos they want, and there is no pushing or frayed tempers.
The Golden Pavilion is, in many people’s view, the Taj Mahal of Japan and you can see why this might be so given its opulence and stunning setting. I too thought it was stunning, however, I don’t think I would go as far as saying it was my highlight of the trip – I much preferred the quieter more modern gardens which weren’t so obsessively managed.
Well Autumn is truly upon us now. The Colchicums are flowering, the leaves are falling and the clocks went back an hour last night. I’ve always enjoyed Autumn, just as I do Spring. I remember as a child one of the highlights of the season was raking up huge piles of beech leaves and jumping into them. For some reason autumn leaves always seem to be damp these days so not conducive to jumping in.
Hugh’s Border is slowly losing its foliage and preparing for winter but many of the plants are deciduous so some interest will remain through the winter. Come early spring the snowdrops will flower and if I remember rightly some narcissus.
I’m including some photos of the wider view mainly because I have treated myself to a wide-angle lens ahead of my trip to Japan in a week’s time. We will be doing a lot of travelling to temples, castles and into the wider landscape so I thought a wide-angle lens would be a worthwhile investment – well that’s the excuse I am making to myself! The photos on this post are all with the new lens and it means I can show you the wider garden view so the different bits make more sense and you soon realise just how small the garden is and inevitably how much it slopes.
Oh and you are probably spotted the large timber scattered around. These are to replace some of the risers on the steps from the patio and also to provide a more definitive edge to the bottom of the Big Border. Work has started now that many of the plants are being cut back and there is less chance of damage from large feet. The aim is to get the new hard landscaping completed over the winter before my spring bulbs start making life more challenging for the landscaper.
Its interesting looking at these photos how much colour there is still in the garden and how much of it comes from foliage as opposed to flowers – reinforcement of my view that if you get the foliage right the flower are just the icing on the cake.
Anyone is welcome to join in with the End of Month meme. You can use it to follow a specific part of the garden through the year or to give your readers a tour of the whole garden – whatever works for you. I like to follow one area through the year as it helps me to be more critical of the space and make improvements. All I ask is that you leave a link to your post in the comments box below and link back to this post in yours – that way everyone can connect.
Every gardener I know seems to be saying this last week ‘Goodness hasn’t the garden shot up this week’ and yes we have been blessed finally with warmer temperatures which coupled with the rain has given plants a real boost. Needless to say having moaned about the cool spring for weeks and weeks those same gardeners are now moaning that they can’t keep on top of things! Personally, with my more lackadaisical approach I don’t worry too much about weeds or that the last bit of lawn needs cutting – they will all be dealt with as and when I have time. At this time of year I am spending more time looking and spotting familiar friends reappearing or studying new acquisitions to see how they grow. So for this month’s Garden Bloggers Bloom Day post I am going to showcase my favourite flowers this weekend.
I am completely obsessed with the trilliums that have reappeared this year, there are two more but they aren’t flowering yet. To be honest I had forgotten about two of them so did a ridiculous little dance when suddenly I spotted them in the border. I can’t work out what the bottom one is, it might be that the flower will develop more and be easier to identify over the next week.
Another woodland delight that took me by surprise but not for long and I soon remembered what it was. Such a pretty dainty flower and I do like the way the petals twist.
On a larger scale in the shady side of the garden the rhododendrons are flowering, these two are my favourites. If I ever am lucky enough to have a larger garden with the right soil I will definitely indulge myself with lots more rhododendrons especially those wonderful ones with furry leaves.
Moving out of the shade into the sunshine the first of the umbellifers is flowering, lovely Sweet Cicely, such an pretty flower.
Allium cameleon is in its second year in the garden and already bulking up well. It is a short, front of the border allium, much daintier than alliums such as Allium Purple Sensation. I really like the way the flowers are blushed with pink.
One of those bigger blowsy alliums just starting to open; I can’t remember which but I suspect it is Purple Sensation. I do love alliums in all their varieties and have them flowering in the garden right through to high summer.
The sea of camassias which have dominated the Big Border creating a delicious blue haze for the last few weeks is coming to an end. It is only the very top of the stems which still have flowers and I can’t bring myself to remove them until they have lost every single flower.
My favourite Aquilegia, its a seedling of the mckenna varieties with the long spurs at the back of the flower which I much prefer to the more chubby looking aquilegias which I think are varieties of the native columbine, whereas the mckenna varieties come from the USA. I have lots of aquilegias, I went through a slightly obsessive period of growing them from seed and interestingly certain colours predominate. I think I will weed out the ones that don’t appeal so much and maybe try to increase the mckenna varieties. There are some who argue that over time all aquilegias revert to the muddy pink variety. This just isn’t true what actually happens is they loose their original aquilegias and the muddy pink ones are seedlings which tend to revert back.
So those are the stars of my garden this week for other gardeners blooms pop over to Carol at May Dreams and check out the links.
Not such a gorgeous weekend as last weekend which was disappointing given it was the Spring Equinox but fingers crossed Easter will see a change and temperatures will start to improve. The garden certainly appears to be waiting for the green light although the epimediums seem to have decided they have waited too long. I am particularly pleased to discover flowering buds on the majority of the other epimediums; worryingly I seem to have accumulated 13 over the last few years.
I do like spring as you have time to really look and see all sorts of delights emerging rather than being overwhelmed with things to look at as you are in the summer. I would like to claim that the combination of the white hyacinth and phormium (above) was planned. But it was a lucky accident with the lime green on the leaf seems to pick up the same colour at the base of each flower. There are lessons to be learnt here about how plants combine well and that is something I have been reading a lot about recently.
I am reading Andrew Lawson’s The Gardeners Book of Colour which is brilliant. I have read essays and books about colour with the obligatory colour wheel before but none have ever explained colour, tones and saturation as clearly as Andrew does. I haven’t got far through the book but I am already thinking about how colour creates an atmosphere and how I might try to use this in my garden especially given the big rejig that is going on. I am also reading Sarah Raven’s Bold and Beautiful which is also inspiring as I love strong colours but I worry about them looking garish in English light. I am hoping that between the two books I might learn something useful about combining plants and colour and take my bitty garden forward.
In the meantime I have sown the first seeds in the new propagator – Cobea scandens which I have wanted to try for some years. I have pruned the prostrate rosemary that falls over the wall back hard so it looks a little embarrassed showing its legs but I know it will re-shoot like mad. I have also cut back some of the tatty fern foliage from around the garden; it is great to see the new furry fronds ready to emerge as soon as the weather warms up. Peering in the borders I found both Iris danfordiae and iris tuberosa flowering but my photos arent up to standard so I will try again for next weekend. This is the first time both have flowered in the garden so I am hopefully they might establish.
I’ll leave you with what is in my opinion the maddest narcissus